Mask Building, part two

[merimask]

As I said in the previous entry, there has been a lot of curiosity about my mask-making method.  This entry & the last one is a sort of tutorial, illustrating my technique.

So!  The mask is warm and dry and sculpted.  Next comes the fun part; painting!  I almost always do a base coat of dye.  It cuts down on the amount of paint coats that I have to do.  Also, it provides a layer of color that seeps into the leather, so that if the mask gets scratched there won't be a big streak of raw pale leather showing.  Also, it is another process that stiffens the leather.

Anything that drys leather out, makes it harder.  So, I use an alcohol-based dye.  It hardens the structure further to help it hold its shape even better.  As an added bonus, alcohol-based dyes dry quickly and they tend to not rub off on skin or clothing as easily as oil-based dyes do.  I use a wool dauber to apply the dye.

That's the inside of the mask.  Even though I use an acrylic sealer to prevent dye transferring to the wearer's face, I still try not to get any dye on the part of the mask that touches the face.  I'm careful to color & finish all the parts that stick out beyond the face, so the mask looks cool from behind as well.

Once the dye dries completely (overnight usually), I apply a sealer coat.  It's the last stiffening method in my arsenal.  Basically, the acrylic sealer seeps into the leather & renders it water-resistant forever.

I use Feibing's Leather Sheen.  It's like Tandy's Super Sheen but it doesn't dry tacky.  It's water-based & non-toxic.

The sealer has to dry really well before I start to paint...at least 3 hours or more (overnight it best).  Once it's dry, I start to lay color on.  My favorite paint is Liquitex acrylics...the paint remains elastic after it dries & doesn't crack if the massk is flexed.  Also, it's colorfast & won't fade in sunlight.  This is why the dye is not enough; dyes ALWAYS fade, I've learned.

For this mask, I start with a dark brown base...

This goes all over the mask, into every crease & cut of the carving.

Next, I drybrush a lighter brown over the entire mask...

Drybrushing is my secret weapon.  To "drybrush", you use a rather dry brush, fill it with paint, then work the paint into the brush so that only a little comes off when you sweep it lightly over an area.  Very effective at bringing out textures.  It shows off the carving details and adds depth & light to the sculpture.  A little trick I learned when I was a kid painting lead D&D models...  ;-)

The second coat isn't dramatic enough for me.  I mix an even lighter brown & drybrush that over just the areas that curve outwards or seem like they'd be faded/lighted better.  If I've done my carving correctly, this will look realistic.

I use colors straight from the bottle for my base, but the drybrushed colors are always mixed by me.   The bark looks perfect to me now...time for my favorite part; details!

The ivy and the bugs get their own base layer of color.  Deep green for the ivy, black for the bugs.

This has to be painted on VERY carefully.  If I stray from the carving, I'll ruin all that tedious drybrushing I did.  It can be repaired with a touch up but that just adds to the time, so I'm patient & careful.

At this point...the mask isn't looking "involved" enough to me.  The roots are supposed to be sheltering all sorts of creatures.  I got the "sheltering" effect with the shaping, but there aren't enough critters carved in there...it needs more.  Separate pieces are what's needed.  I stop painting & pull out my carving tools. 

These smaller pieces, I'll make with 3oz leather...much lighter & thinner than the stuff the main mask is made of.  These things need to look realistic & delicate.  I dye a swatch of leather red & use a hole punch to cut out some tiny ladybugs too...even the ladybugs are carved.

 Everything gets "drawn" right into the damp leather first, with a stylus, before I carve it.  I carve some small ivy leaves, a couple butterflies, & (a total improvisation) a salamander!

I have a feeling the salamander is going to be extra-cute.

Everything gets cut out & then, I dye it with my alcohol-based dyes again.  See, anything that dries leather, hardens & sets the leather, right?  Heat & water sets the masks 'cause they are made of thick stuff & can take the oven's heat, but the oven would turn these thinner sculptures into raisins (I know 'cause I've tried!).  So, the alcohol on the dye is what I use to sculpt these little things.  Black for the salamander & the butterflies, green for the leaves.  I shape them by hand & leave them to dry.
 
Once they set up a bit, I dip the entire pieces in the sealer & leave them to dry some more.  This takes a long time, but is worth it because between the alcohol dye & the sealer, they'll hold their shape forever.

Back to painting the mask...I drybrush lighter green over the dark green ivy, & metallic blues & greens over the butterfly & bugs...

I add tiny details too, like gold stripes on the beetles and white spots on the edge of the butterfly's wings.

The little pieces...they are still wet!  Poop!  I can't glue (or even paint) anything that is still tacky from sealer; it'll never harden up.  Beyond that, the glue won't stick.

This is a perfect time for a break.  Time to take Kiba for a walk in the woods.

Kiba LOVES the snow & he loves his walks.

Why am I showing this?  Because it's a HUGE part of my creative process.  Obviously I'm not making a root-maze mask based on anything I've seen in a book.  I get a lot of my ideas from nature.  Things I see during walks with Kiba, or during my bike rides...they end up in my art.

Also, it's important to remember to take time out for yourself.  When you are self-employed, it's too easy to work ALL the time.  I work all weekend, late into the night, when I'm sick, on holidays, on my birthday...even when I go on vacation!  I always work.  So, I try to remember to "play" a little every day too.  It's important to keep your love alive.

Kiba is so joyful...he reminds me to see the beauty all around me everywhere I go, and that's what keeps me going.
 

So, after some miles in the snow I come back to find that the little pieces are nice & dry...perfect!  Time to paint those.  Same technique I used on the mask; dark base coat of paint over the dyed & sealed critters, followed by lighter contrasting coats drybrushed atop.  Except for the salamander!  I remember catching black salamanders with orange spots on 'em in the woods when I was a kid...

When in doubt, use a guidebook though.  I keep a TON of reference books when I want to get the details right...like that Red Admiral butterfly there.  I needed the guidebook for him.

So now that everything is painted I can glue it on...this is the best part!  I use "Goop" glue...it's really strong stuff.  It remains flexible & bonds to ANYthing.  I've tried pulling two "gooped" pieces of leather apart; the leather tears before the glue separates.  Great stuff for adding extra pieces.

Ventilate well or it'll make you loopy & kill precious brain cells.

Everything gets glued & I prop the mask up to dry...

OMG the salamander...it's CLINGING IN THE CUTEST WAY.

A few hours for the Goop to dry, and I spray-seal the entire mask with an acrylic sealant.  Fiebing's Leather Sheen in a  13 oz aerosol can...very nasty stuff.  Again, ventilate (or leave the room) as it will make you loopy & perhaps dead.

Everything dries.  And, the finished Root Maze Mask is done!

Details...

More details...

OMG SALAMANDER!

...and the butterfly/ivy.


 

And there you have it, from start to finish.  A weekend's project.  Not including drying time, about 10 hours of work (I am FAST, though, because I know what I'm doing).   A totally fun, totally unique mask.

I hope this was a helpful couple of entries!  If you have any questions regarding products I use (or just any little thing you're curious about),  just ask.  ^_^