So! The mask is warm and dry and sculpted. Next comes the fun part; painting! I almost always do a base coat of dye. It cuts down on the amount of paint coats that I have to do. Also, it provides a layer of color that seeps into the leather, so that if the mask gets scratched there won't be a big streak of raw pale leather showing. Also, it is another process that stiffens the leather.
Anything that drys leather out, makes it harder. So, I use an alcohol-based dye. It hardens the structure further to help it hold its shape even better. As an added bonus, alcohol-based dyes dry quickly and they tend to not rub off on skin or clothing as easily as oil-based dyes do. I use a wool dauber to apply the dye.

That's the inside of the mask. Even though I use an acrylic sealer to prevent dye transferring to the wearer's face, I still try not to get any dye on the part of the mask that touches the face. I'm careful to color & finish all the parts that stick out beyond the face, so the mask looks cool from behind as well.
Once the dye dries completely (overnight usually), I apply a sealer coat. It's the last stiffening method in my arsenal. Basically, the acrylic sealer seeps into the leather & renders it water-resistant forever.

I use Feibing's Leather Sheen. It's like Tandy's Super Sheen but it doesn't dry tacky. It's water-based & non-toxic.
The sealer has to dry really well before I start to paint...at least 3 hours or more (overnight it best). Once it's dry, I start to lay color on. My favorite paint is Liquitex acrylics...the paint remains elastic after it dries & doesn't crack if the massk is flexed. Also, it's colorfast & won't fade in sunlight. This is why the dye is not enough; dyes ALWAYS fade, I've learned.
For this mask, I start with a dark brown base...

This goes all over the mask, into every crease & cut of the carving.
Next, I drybrush a lighter brown over the entire mask...

Drybrushing is my secret weapon. To "drybrush", you use a rather dry brush, fill it with paint, then work the paint into the brush so that only a little comes off when you sweep it lightly over an area. Very effective at bringing out textures. It shows off the carving details and adds depth & light to the sculpture. A little trick I learned when I was a kid painting lead D&D models... ;-)
The second coat isn't dramatic enough for me. I mix an even lighter brown & drybrush that over just the areas that curve outwards or seem like they'd be faded/lighted better. If I've done my carving correctly, this will look realistic.

I use colors straight from the bottle for my base, but the drybrushed colors are always mixed by me. The bark looks perfect to me now...time for my favorite part; details!
The ivy and the bugs get their own base layer of color. Deep green for the ivy, black for the bugs.

This has to be painted on VERY carefully. If I stray from the carving, I'll ruin all that tedious drybrushing I did. It can be repaired with a touch up but that just adds to the time, so I'm patient & careful.
At this point...the mask isn't looking "involved" enough to me. The roots are supposed to be sheltering all sorts of creatures. I got the "sheltering" effect with the shaping, but there aren't enough critters carved in there...it needs more. Separate pieces are what's needed. I stop painting & pull out my carving tools.
These smaller pieces, I'll make with 3oz leather...much lighter & thinner than the stuff the main mask is made of. These things need to look realistic & delicate. I dye a swatch of leather red & use a hole punch to cut out some tiny ladybugs too...even the ladybugs are carved.

Everything gets "drawn" right into the damp leather first, with a stylus, before I carve it. I carve some small ivy leaves, a couple butterflies, & (a total improvisation) a salamander!

I have a feeling the salamander is going to be extra-cute.
Everything gets cut out & then, I dye it with my alcohol-based dyes again. See, anything that dries leather, hardens & sets the leather, right? Heat & water sets the masks 'cause they are made of thick stuff & can take the oven's heat, but the oven would turn these thinner sculptures into raisins (I know 'cause I've tried!). So, the alcohol on the dye is what I use to sculpt these little things. Black for the salamander & the butterflies, green for the leaves. I shape them by hand & leave them to dry.

Once they set up a bit, I dip the entire pieces in the sealer & leave them to dry some more. This takes a long time, but is worth it because between the alcohol dye & the sealer, they'll hold their shape forever.
Back to painting the mask...I drybrush lighter green over the dark green ivy, & metallic blues & greens over the butterfly & bugs...

I add tiny details too, like gold stripes on the beetles and white spots on the edge of the butterfly's wings.
The little pieces...they are still wet! Poop! I can't glue (or even paint) anything that is still tacky from sealer; it'll never harden up. Beyond that, the glue won't stick.
This is a perfect time for a break. Time to take Kiba for a walk in the woods.
Kiba LOVES the snow & he loves his walks.
Why am I showing this? Because it's a HUGE part of my creative process. Obviously I'm not making a root-maze mask based on anything I've seen in a book. I get a lot of my ideas from nature. Things I see during walks with Kiba, or during my bike rides...they end up in my art.
Also, it's important to remember to take time out for yourself. When you are self-employed, it's too easy to work ALL the time. I work all weekend, late into the night, when I'm sick, on holidays, on my birthday...even when I go on vacation! I always work. So, I try to remember to "play" a little every day too. It's important to keep your love alive.
Kiba is so joyful...he reminds me to see the beauty all around me everywhere I go, and that's what keeps me going.
So, after some miles in the snow I come back to find that the little pieces are nice & dry...perfect! Time to paint those. Same technique I used on the mask; dark base coat of paint over the dyed & sealed critters, followed by lighter contrasting coats drybrushed atop. Except for the salamander! I remember catching black salamanders with orange spots on 'em in the woods when I was a kid...
When in doubt, use a guidebook though. I keep a TON of reference books when I want to get the details right...like that Red Admiral butterfly there. I needed the guidebook for him.
So now that everything is painted I can glue it on...this is the best part! I use "Goop" glue...it's really strong stuff. It remains flexible & bonds to ANYthing. I've tried pulling two "gooped" pieces of leather apart; the leather tears before the glue separates. Great stuff for adding extra pieces.
Ventilate well or it'll make you loopy & kill precious brain cells.
Everything gets glued & I prop the mask up to dry...
OMG the salamander...it's CLINGING IN THE CUTEST WAY.
A few hours for the Goop to dry, and I spray-seal the entire mask with an acrylic sealant. Fiebing's Leather Sheen in a 13 oz aerosol can...very nasty stuff. Again, ventilate (or leave the room) as it will make you loopy & perhaps dead.
Everything dries. And, the finished Root Maze Mask is done!
Details...
More details...
OMG SALAMANDER!
...and the butterfly/ivy.
I hope this was a helpful couple of entries! If you have any questions regarding products I use (or just any little thing you're curious about), just ask. ^_^
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Thanks.
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It was fun & interesting to really analyze what I do though...I think every artist ought to do that (hint hint!) even if we just do it for ourselves.
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But I have the pictures and have done another series and will post a set sometime soon. Looks like we are snowed in for a week or so, lots of time.
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and the mask is fabulous
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I'm curious about what you 've said about the leather dye - they always fade?
I have had problems in the past with the blue/turquoise end of the spectrum, and no I use paint rather than dye if I'm using those colours - the others seem OK. However, I am now concerned over the quality of my past work. I would hate for people to be disappointed because their masks don't hold their colour... I might have to leave a few test pieces out in direct light for a week or so.
So once again, thank you for this advice, it's very helpful.
Kiba looks gorgeous, by the way. :D
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Yeah...dyes are all varying degrees of no good. Some colors (green, red, black) are more unstable than others. Brown tends to darken, rather than get lighter. Oil-based dyes hold color better, though the red tends to darken to deep brown, & all oil dyes bleed & rub off like crazy. Acrylic dyes are best (but they tend to remain on the surface...paint is better). Alcohol dyes fade like mad. Black goes blue, purple & green go light brown.
I've been making masks for 17 years now, so I see what happens to different dyes over time. Masks/things kept out of direct sunlight age better than things that are used hard (I make my masks to be used, so I have seen some of them completely change color over time which is why I do things this way now).
Kiba thanks you for the flattery, by the way. :-) He knows he is a handsome guy.
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I'm still very much a beginner with leather - though I have been making papier-mache masks for 10 years. I really appreciate all of your help and advice.
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mask leather
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Re: mask leather
Avoid Tandy. They're great for tools & supplies but the tooling leather they get is stuff rejected by the shoe & belt industry...even the stuff they say is "high quality". Chemical-burned, old, dried out, cracked, scarred, or too "loose" (fuzzy-backed) to be used.
Weaver is a retailer & the quality varies depending on where they get their seconds. So they are expensive & unreliable.
I go right to the source; I buy directly from a tannery. Wickett & Craig, out of Curwensville PA. An actual tannery so the stuff is always fresh & perfect...even their utility-grade is lovely. They split down from 12oz all the way to 2oz (and they'll give you the splits from your hide for free). Utility varies from 4.39 per square foot (that's a sale they are running on "russet carving special hides" right now) to about 5.30. Sides are 20 to 27 sq feet. Totally worth every cent.
If you just want to try it out before you get a side, I think the bellies are $15 or so...very long & even the bellies are better than the best Tandy has to offer. & when you ask for 7oz or 4 oz or whatever, the WHOLE piece is the same thickness...none of that 7/8 oz stuff that Tandy does.
They'll ship directly to you, one hide or ten, or a hundred. 1-800-TANNERY Ask for Glen & tell him you heard from "merimask designs"...he'll be sure to give you the pretty stuff.
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I really wish we lived closer together - I'd love to try this.
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I'm hoping two things come of this; perhaps people might try to make a leather mask of their own. Also, perhaps folks will better understand what I do (& why I charge what I do for it).
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Do you mind if I tag you onto the list here?
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From: (Anonymous)
Thanks!
I was wondering what kind of leather you use and how one obtains it.
Also--and I feel stupid for asking--but is it possible to use the leather from old work/cowboy boots for practice...? :D
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Re: Thanks!
Only vegetable-tanned tooling leather works with this method. It has to be undyed and no sealed, so it can take water. Water is essential for leather carving, tooling & shaping.
The old boots are already treated & so they really can't be practiced with. Look in your area for "Tandy" leather company (or "TLC) stores near you...their leather sucks but at least you can try it.
Or call 1-800-TANNERY and see about getting some bellies to practice on ("russet carving/tooling" is what they call their good grade of tooling leather). That's really a good way to go. Start with 6 or 7 ounce leather...8 is a bit much for beginners.
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The tutorial is very interesting. I don't know that I could be as free-form at it as you are; I tend to plan my projects down to the last pearl... ;) Fortunately, I'm thinking tooled & painted coronets, not Awesomely Creative Masks. :D (I also intend to use water&heat hardened leather as structural bases for hats.)
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This has been so cool. I love your masks, and to see how you make them is that much more wondrous. Thank you for sharing.
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And Kiba looks adorable- as usual..give him hugs from me..
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HOLY COW!!!!!
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So now when I tell you guys that I'm "busy makin' stuff!", you'll know what I mean. ^_^
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Also... I think this is one of my favorite masks. I'm not sure if it's because I got to see how it was made, or because of how protective it seems, almost like a talisman. It's a powerful piece of art.
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I'm glad I decided to write down/take pictures of the whole process. I thought it might be boring or too technical but I guess not.
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Wow!
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Your masks are really amazing, it was fun reading your tutorial. (specifically because you looked happy to share every detail. :3) And your dog, you named him Kiba! Aww... That part of the tutorial made me understand more. tee-hee! Thanks a lot for sharing this! n___n
Kerstie
kkoorime.deviantart.com
From: (Anonymous)
Awwwww Salamander!
And seriously, that salamander is the best. I want to hug it.
~Ellira
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My name is River